
I noticed most rear hub motors have 6 and some offer 7 if requested.Īnd what about the fact I have 3 sprockets on my crank?Īlso does it matter if I get a rear hub with a disc break and not use it, I was thinking I could take it to a bike shop and get the rest installed for a working hydraulic breaks later. One of my most important questions is since I have 9 sprockets/gears? on my current rear wheel, does it matter if I buy a hub motor kit with less sprockets? (check my skydrive url pics below) I do plan to give my self a leg push to start rolling and a crank when I start at lights, this should be enough for a direct drive hub? So I am thinking it might just be more worth while to get a cheaper direct drive of larger watts to make up for the lost torque of a geared hub.

Have been thinking of going geared hub but they seem to cost a fair bit more and not many sellers about locally there is one seller on AU eBay but his listing has currently gone. My rear tyre has got a few small holes where I think it's been allowing flats so I think I could kill two birds with one stone and get a tyre+tube rear motor hub kit. I am now really am thinking geared or direct drive rear hub motor, because it will be safer with my aluminium frame and because after changing my rear tube it went flat again after one ride so I am think it's a sign that I should go with a rear setup. Then I read mid-drive kits are noisey, and also a bigger job to install, while I plan to only ride on the road so noise can only matter so much I do like the idea the of being discreet, but any positive feedback on going down mid-drive route would easily help make it the choice of path. Then I thought mid-drive Cyclone or GNG electric kit, so i get more torque, this kit looks like a pretty good deal.

The forks are SR Suntour NEX 4610 V2, seems to get a lot of hits on google. Originally I was thinking of going front geared/direct fork hub, but I found my bike completely fails the magnet steel fork strength test, the forks are pretty chunky aluminium though. I want to electric my Giant Farrago 2009 M sized Hybrid bike and I am having trouble with which type of motor technology I should use.
#Giant farrago plus#
Anything above that would just be a nice plus I think. I think I would be quite happy with 30km/h speed but am willing to accept 25km/h for exchange for more take off from traffic lights torque. I hate stopping at traffic lights and having to pedal hard to get going again and it really takes it out of me often to the point where once I get to my destination I can't enjoy my self etc as I am too hot and tired. My main goal is to do 10km commute round trips, with about 8 stops at lights, and I want to do the least amount of pedalling needed (this is my vision currently at least).
#Giant farrago upgrade#
Steel doesn't have fatigue issues.I been reading posts on here and am convinced this is the best place on the net to get help with my first ebike upgrade by far. Most people retire their aluminum bicycles prior to the point of fatigue. If the aluminum framed bike has been in constant use for many years, there will come at time when it will experience fatigue and fail. In your case, I would suppose that they both are decent bikes. If an older bike rides smoothly, then yes, it's a "decent" bike. Therefore, to answer your "decent" bike question. For example, Shimano's 105 two years ago, is the equivalent of today's Tiagra, a lower tier gruppo than Shimano's 105 gruppo. It's quite possible that a bicycle considered to have lower tier components today, may very well have better components than what was considered to be of a higher tier many years ago. Therefore, bicycle companies have one base price for a model bike frame with lower tier components attached, and a higher price for that same bicycle frame, with higher priced components.

Usually, the more expensive the components, the better the whole bike operates. Since most frames are strong and have strong bonds at their weld points, the only other requirement is that their components function properly. What makes for a decent bicycle in most cases, are it's components. This is my wife's first bike in a while, both are in immaculate condition so they look and operate well. I guess I should have also asked if these were decent quality bikes.
